A Unique Figure in the Muong People’s Tet Celebration

Deeply rooted in the traditions of ancient Vietnamese communities, the spiritual and cultural life of the Muong people is rich and unique, featuring many distinctive rituals. Among these, Mo Muong is a distinctive cultural tradition, vividly expressed during important occasions, holidays, and especially the Tet celebration of the Muong people.

Traveling along a misty road, we arrived at the home of Shaman Nguyen Dinh Thuong in Zone 2, Ngoc Dong Commune, Yen Lap District. He is one of the heirs to the Mo songs of the Muong Yen Lap people, passed down from his father. In 2022, he was awarded the title of “Meritorious Artisan” by the President. With over 36 years of expertise, Mr. Thuong is frequently invited by villagers and people from both within and beyond the commune to perform prayers during Tet, the spring season, and major village festivals.

Shaman Nguyen Dinh Thuong conducts rituals at the Muong people’s Forest Opening Festival on the 6th day of the first lunar month.

As we sipped leaf tea and took small sips of corn wine, the chill of the mountainside seemed to fade away. Mr. Thuong shared candidly, “I began learning Mo and prayers at the age of 15. By the time I was 27, I had started performing New Year prayers, a tradition I have maintained ever since. Every year, from the 27th day of Tet (when the door-raising ritual takes place) to the 7th day of Khai Ha (the lowering of the Tet pole), after completing ceremonies for the villagers, I travel to neighboring villages to conduct prayers. Some people from as far as Tan Son district even seek my help.”

For the Muong people, the New Year prayer ritual has been preserved for generations and is considered the most important ceremony during their Tet celebration. It serves to inform the ancestors of the past year’s achievements and express gratitude for their blessings, wishing for the health and prosperity of future generations. It also invites the ancestors to join their descendants in celebrating Tet. This tradition reflects the Muong people’s deep-rooted value of "drinking water, remembering its source." The Muong people begin their Tet celebrations only after the shaman has performed the ceremonial offering of meat and wine, prepared by his descendants. Once the ritual is complete, relatives and friends visit the homeowner to extend their New Year wishes.

Leaving Ngoc Dong commune in Yen Lap district, we traveled to Thu Cuc commune in Tan Son district, where only two Muong shamans currently practice. During Tet in Thu Cuc commune, it is common for families to wait from morning until late at night for the shaman’s arrival. People believe that their ancestors recognize the voice and words of a familiar shaman, who alone knows the lineage and history of each household, ensuring that the ancestral spirits are properly invited to celebrate Tet. A shaman must not only be in good health but also possess an excellent memory, as they need to recall the names of ancestors from both their own commune and many neighboring villages.

Accompanying Ms. Tran Mai Huyen, Vice Chairwoman of the Thu Cuc Commune People’s Committee, we visited the home of Mr. Ha Van En, a fourth-generation shaman in the commune. Mr. En recalled, “In the past, before telephones were available, houses were far apart, making it difficult for homeowners to locate the shaman. Sometimes, they would spend the entire morning searching for him." Nowadays, with the convenience of mobile phones, motorbikes, and improved transportation, both homeowners and shamans can coordinate more easily. In the past, due to scheduling difficulties, some families would prepare food early in the morning and wait for the shaman until midnight. Despite their exhaustion, they remained determined to complete the ritual.

Shaman Ha Van En performs the rice spirit procession ceremony during the Doi Tet festival—Tet going to the fields of the Muong people in Thu Cuc commune, Tan Son district.

According to Muong custom, after the shaman completes his “divine duty,” the homeowner brings “leaf gifts” (meat wrapped in banana leaves, wine, and jam) to his house as a token of gratitude. Today, this custom has evolved significantly. Instead of leaf gifts, most families now offer lucky money, with the amount varying depending on the homeowner’s means.

As society continues to develop, many traditions have evolved, yet the shaman remains a vital figure in the cultural and spiritual life of the Muong people. During Tet, the shaman plays a distinctive and revered role, helping to preserve the unique cultural heritage of the Muong community and contributing to the broader cultural identity of the Vietnamese people.

Quynh Nhu