Delicious Dishes of the Da River

The fierce Da River, with its perilous rocky rapids and deep, ferocious abysses, is the nurturing ground for rare species of catfish. Living in torrential waters, the Da River fish must constantly flap their tails and thrash their bodies to battle the extremely powerful currents. It is this harsh, natural tempering that creates a catfish meat that is firm, deeply sweet, rich, and completely devoid of any muddy or fishy odor. From hemibagrus, bagarius to sheatfish, each species possesses its own distinct flavor, creating a unique culinary of the Phu Tho Ancestral Land.

The Rustic Flavor of the Fishermen

Mr. Duong Tien Dung, 56 years old, a veteran fisherman from the Xuan Loc area, now Dao Xa, leisurely narrates by the side of his boat: "For fishermen like us who spend the whole year floating on the waves, the method of preparing fish always respects originality. Boat dwellers do not rely on elaborate spices; the key is to fully preserve the fresh, sweet flavor right after pulling the fish up from the riverbed. Fundamentally, it’s about cooking whatever is available under the floating, space-constrained conditions of fishing life."

For experienced Da River fishermen like Mr. Duong Tien Dung, each type of Da River fish carries its own unique, unforgettable taste and processing method.

According to Mr. Dung, the most classic dish of the river people is fire-roasted hemibagrus . The fresh fish, just removed from the net, has its slime scraped clean using kitchen ash, is sliced along its spine, and is then clamped into a mature bamboo skewer. Without complex marination—just a touch of chili salt and minced shallots—the fish is grilled directly over a glowing wood-fire hearth right on the side of the boat. The wood smoke blends into the sizzling fish skin while the fish fat rendering out creates a fragrant aroma. When cooked, the fish meat is pure white. Dipped into a bowl of pungent ginger fish sauce and accompanied by a few leaves of polyscias fruticosa, a rich sweetness spreads at the tip of the tongue.

Similarly, for another catfish like the crystal-eyed catfish, there are dishes such ascrystal-eyed catfish braised with tomatoes, crystal-eyed catfish quickly-stewed,crystal-eyed catfish hotpot, crystal-eyed catfish cooked with sour bamboo shoots, or cooked with rice ferment... Each flavor brings a unique perception that only river people can deliver to diners.

The bagarius fish of the Da River is a precious fish species that is difficult to catch, resulting in a very high price. The bagarius fish can be prepared as raw fish salad, grilled, braised, or made into shredded fish floss —all of which taste very special and are highly nutritious.

Mr. Dang Van Luyen, also a fisherman from the Dao Xa area, cheerfully relates: "Another rustic fish dish is sheatfish cooked in a traditional sour soup. The fishermen utilize natural, readily available ingredients like halved fruits, a few slices of dried garcinia cowa, green dracontomelon fruits, or well-fermented rice, and a few handfuls of herbs hastily picked from the back garden... The sheatfish is cleaned of its slime, cut into thick steaks, and cooked together with thinly sliced hill bamboo shoots and various aromatic herbs such as green onions, dill, and rice paddy herb... A bowl of sour soup shimmering with fish fat, where the elegant sourness of the dọc fruit tempers the rich oiliness of the catfish, enjoyed hot on a windy river afternoon alongside a small glass of carefully aged home-brewed rice wine from the corner of the garden, is absolutely unparalleled."

Sublimation in Restaurants

Ms. Nguyen Thi Hoa—owner of the famous Hac Tri Fish Restaurant located at the confluence of the rivers, known for its unique and delicious fish dishes—emphasizes: "For our restaurant, when brought from the fishermen’s boat wells into the luxurious space of the restaurant, the Da River catfish puts on a new, more refined, and elaborate coat to please diners from all directions. Among these, the ’secret recipe' in preparation is the key to keeping customers returning multiple times."

Charcoal-grilled wrapped in rice paper is one of the unique delicacies at Tien Hung Restaurant in Thanh Mieu ward—a well-known establishment specialized in river fish dishes.

According to Ms. Hoa, most catfish from the Da and Lo rivers are delicious and offer many unique ways of preparation. First and foremost is the Charcoal-grilled hotpot with fermented rice and turmeric. While keeping the original spirit of using fermented rice as a catalyst for an elegant sour note, the restaurant chefs have meticulously crafted the broth. Fish bones are simmered along with marrow bones for many hours to extract a deep sweetness. The hotpot broth boasts an appealing golden color from finely crushed fresh turmeric, alongside the fragrant aroma of thoroughly sautéed lemongrass and shallots. The Charcoal-grilled is filleted into thin, square slices arranged beautifully like flower petals. When dining, patrons dip each slice of fish into the boiling hotpot, eating it with fresh rice vermicelli, dill, and finely split scallion bulbs. The combination of the fish’s richness, the elegant sourness of the fermented rice, and the fragrance of turmeric creates a perfect ensemble.

Bagarius salad with the golden hue of the fish meat—tasting non-fishy and very sweet with river flavors—is a rare delicacy in restaurants because it requires elaborate preparation and special experience from veteran chefs.

As for bagarius —the “lord of the riverbed”—with its thick skin and meat as firm as wild boar, it pairs exceptionally well with dishes like mixed salads, raw fish salads, grilling, braising, or frying with chili salt. The cá chiên meat is cubed, marinated with the juice of galangal, fermented rice, premium shrimp paste, and a touch of wild forest honey for color. Instead of using wood charcoal which can leave soot, the restaurant utilizes enclosed ovens or pan-sears the fish with scallion oil, helping the fish cook evenly from the inside out, retaining its sweet juices while keeping the exterior golden-brown and crispy.

Not limited to catfish, when customers request or supply is available, many unique scaled fish from the Da River like spinibarbus denticulatus, black carp... are also brought to the banquet table with distinctive cooking styles, making diners remember the taste of the Ancestral Land’s river fish after just one bite. For this reason, the river confluence land today hosts dozens of fish restaurants with famous preparation methods that delight tourists whenever mentioned, such as Hac Tri, Hoa Nham, Xuan Thuyet, Coi Nguon...

Whether through the raw, rustic preparation of the fishermen or the refined, methodical spice combinations of modern restaurants, the core essence of Da River delicacies lies in the superb quality of the local produce. Returning to the Phu Tho Ancestral Land, sitting by a windy riverbank, and tasting the delicacies of the Da River, diners are not merely enjoying a delicious meal, but are experiencing a piece of the soul, the fiercest strength, and the generosity of a legendary river. This is also a source of pride—a sustainable culinary beauty bound to the historical current of the nation’s ancestral land.

Minh Tu