Flavor of San Diu People’s Nghe Cake

In the traditional culinary treasury of the San Diu people, Banh Nghe (Nghe Cake) is a rustic delicacy that embodies a rich cultural identity. Crafted from simple ingredients of the hills and through meticulous handmade processes, this cake is more than a daily snack; it is deeply intertwined with the spiritual life and memories of many generations.

The Nghe Cake of the San Diu people.

The San Diu are famous for various traditional cakes such as ant egg cakes, humped sticky rice cakes, and banh nang... Each type carries its own significance, reflecting the natural conditions and lifestyle of the community. Among them, Banh Nghe (also known as Banh Con, Banh Bac Dau, or Banh La Mit) is a popular rustic treat preserved in Phu Tho and several provinces in the Northern Midlands.

A common thread among these cakes is that they are all made from glutinous rice. The rice is carefully selected, washed, soaked, and then ground or pounded into a fine flour. The dough-making process requires patience and dexterity; the flour is kneaded with warm water until it reaches a perfect elasticity—neither too wet nor too dry.

From this smooth white dough, makers quickly mold small pieces. Depending on the locality, the cake may be round, shaped like a pomelo wedge, or curved like a jackfruit leaf. In some areas, to create an appealing color, ripe gac fruit is mixed into the dough, yielding a bright red hue symbolizing luck.

The fillings are diverse, but the most common is soft-soaked, husked, and finely mashed mung beans. Some families add only a pinch of salt to keep the original nutty flavor; others sauté the beans with sugar, adding roasted sesame seeds or a bit of lard for aroma. Particularly, the “Bac Dau” (Silver-headed) version usually features a filling of crushed roasted peanuts and sesame mixed with white sugar. After being filled and sealed, the cake is rolled through a layer of fine, dry glutinous rice flour. This white coating reminds locals of silver hair, giving rise to its witty and rustic name.

The cakes are dropped into boiling water to cook. Once they float to the surface—reminiscent of the saying “seven parts floating, three parts sinking”—they are scooped out. The San Diu usually place the cakes on green jackfruit leaves freshly picked from the garden. The white or red of the cakes stands out against the green leaves, creating an image that is simple yet harmonious with nature. This presentation also reflects a lifestyle that is close to nature, thrifty, and eco-friendly.

Uncomplicated in flavor, Banh Nghe carries the aroma of new sticky rice, the heartiness of mung beans, the mild sweetness of sugar, and the scent of roasted sesame and peanuts. All these elements blend to create a light, non-greasy sensation suitable for the palates of all generations.

More importantly, Banh Nghe is intimately tied to the spiritual life of the San Diu. It is typically made during Tomb Sweeping Day, Doan Ngo (the 5th day of the 5th lunar month), the full moon of the 7th month, the Winter Solstice, and especially the Lunar New Year. On ancestral altars, these small, lovely cakes express sincerity and prayers for health, peace, and favorable harvests. After the rituals, the cakes are shared among children and grandchildren as a way to connect family generations.

Today, despite many changes in life, Banh Nghe is still preserved during full moon days, weddings, or family reunions. In some places, the sight of bright red cakes arranged on flat winnowing baskets against green jackfruit leaves has become a subject for artistic photography documenting San Diu life.

Photographer Thai Sinh, a member of the Vietnam Ethnic Minorities Literature and Arts Association and the Phu Tho Photography Branch, is deeply passionate about San Diu themes. Among his various works on their lifestyle, he has captured the process of making this glutinous rice flour cake.

Similarly, photographer Khong Yen Anh captured a cherished moment of young San Diu girls excitedly experiencing and cradling these tiny, beautiful Nghe cakes.

Rustic in ingredients and simple in execution, yet profound in cultural meaning, Banh Nghe has become a part of the soul of the San Diu community. For those who have tasted it, the flavor does not just linger on the tongue; it evokes a sense of home, family affection, and a strong bond with ancestral traditions.

If you have not had the chance, visit the San Diu people in Phu Tho to immerse yourself in their culture and enjoy the unforgettable, rustic taste of Banh Nghe.

Quynh Hoa