The Art of making Banh Chung and Banh Giay in the Land of the Hung Kings

The craft of making banh chung and banh giay in Viet Tri city and the districts of Cam Khe and Tam Nong (Phu Tho province) has been recognized by the Ministry of Culture, Sports, and Tourism as a National Intangible Cultural Heritage, according to Decision No. 1180/QĐ-BVHTTDL dated May 8, 2023. Over time, the localities have chosen their own ways to preserve this unique heritage, which is deeply imbued with the historical and cultural identity of the regions.

Ninh Hang banh chung is a renowned traditional brand in Hung Lo commune, Viet Tri city. Legend has it that the land along the Lo River is where the custom of wrapping cakes for the king originated. As the second-generation artisan continuing the family tradition, Mr. Nguyen Van Ninh and Mrs. Bui Thi Thu Hang have always preserved the method of making banh chung and banh giay with the authentic flavors passed down through the generations.

Artisan Nguyen Van Ninh, the owner of the Ninh Hang banh chung brand in Hung Lo commune, shared: “Ninh Hang banh chung and banh giay are commercial products originating from a traditional craft village. We once thought about diversifying the flavors to cater to customers' preferences. However, after careful consideration, we decided to keep the traditional flavor of the banh chung and banh giay, as it has been for many years.”

Similar to banh chung, banh giay remains true to its traditional culture, simple yet rich in flavor, from its ingredients to the preparation, shape, and taste. The banh giay pounding festival in Truc Phe village (Hung Hoa town, Tam Nong district) is held on the 6th and 7th day of the lunar New Year. The festival attracts local communities to compete in a one-hour contest.

Sticky rice for making cakes is carefully selected, with plump, white, and fragrant grains. After being steamed in a basket, the sticky rice is placed in a mortar or on a wooden board to be pounded. While pounding, the pestle is lubricated with chicken fat. The pestle must always pound in a vertical direction until the rice flour becomes smooth and sticky. Once the cake reaches the required consistency, the teams must shape it into a foot-shaped figure, with a height of 5 cm and a diameter of 15 - 20 cm.

Truc Phe rice cakes, when eaten, provide a chewy texture, the fragrance of sticky rice, a bit of richness from the chicken fat, and especially no filling. The artisan team from Tam Nong district won the first prize at the cake wrapping and pounding competition during the Hung Kings' Festival in 2023. However, when asked why the local area does not develop the commercial product of banh giay, Deputy Chairman of the People’s Committee Nguyen Ngoc Kien said: "To develop a commercial product, additional ingredients would need to be added to banh giay. The elders do not support this and only wish to preserve the original version of the cake according to the ancient tradition."

The craft of making banh chung and banh giay in Viet Tri City, Cam Khe district, and Tam Nong district still follows the direction of preserving the essence and traditional flavor. However, each craft village and local area has chosen to develop this heritage in a way that aligns with the community’s mindset and aspirations.

According to Ms. Nguyen Thi Loi, the third generation of the Ninh Hang banh chung brand in Hung Lo commune, Viet Tri City, she said: "Banh chung has a longer shelf life than banh giay. Banh chung can be stored in the fridge for 7 to 10 days. Banh giay can only be kept for up to 3 days in cold weather because banh giay cannot be stored in the fridge, as it will affect the cake’s quality."

With the criteria of not using additives and preservatives that affect consumers' health, manufacturers still have to struggle to find ways to increase shelf life, serve long-distance transportation and reach more customers.

The banh chung brand of artisan Nguyen Thi Anh (Hung Viet commune, Cam Khe district) is an example. After the finished banh chung is baked and cooled, the seller will wrap it in a vacuum bag before delivering it to the customer. This is considered an improvement in preservation, helping to prolong the shelf life of the banh chung and also increase customer preference.

The process of commercializing traditional handmade products is not simple. In addition to the production process to create a delicious and high-quality finished product, investment is needed for packaging, increasing brand recognition, storage, and transportation for distribution. Although the “delicacy” of banh giay seems to make this product difficult to participate in the commercial supply chain, the owner of the Lang Lieu banh giay production facility has managed to get the product certified with the 3-star OCOP label from Viet Tri City.

Mr. Dao Van Long - Owner of Lang Lieu banh giay production facility (Hy Cuong commune, Viet Tri city) saw the key in the production and consumption of banh giay. That is knowing how to take advantage of the time. In the three months of spring, the output is up to 20 tons of rice/ month. At the peak of the festival days, the facility consumes 1 ton of rice/ day. Thanks to knowing how to “make one crop to feed the whole year”, his facility has remained strong in the market for 18 years thanks to the traditional banh giay.

In addition to commercial production, Truc Phe banh giay (Hung Hoa town, Tam Nong district) and Mo Chu Ha banh giay (Bach Hac ward, Viet Tri city) are very famous but are still preserved through traditional festivals. Over the centuries, local people have chosen different ways to preserve the beauty of their ancestors' culinary culture and pass it on to future generations.

Thuy Trang