Elevating Traditional Banh Chung

As the end of the year approaches, the festive atmosphere of Tet fills the air in traditional Banh Chung-making villages.

Hung Lo Commune in Viet Tri City is renowned for its Banh Chung and Banh Giay crafting, a tradition deeply rooted in the legend dating back to the time of Hung Kings, who established the foundation of the Vietnamese nation. Continuing this age-old tradition, the residents of Xom village in Hung Lo still preserve the craft. The Banh Chung kitchens burn throughout the year, fulfilling orders from all over, but it is the months of December that are the busiest. To achieve the prestigious title of “Banh Chung for Kings,” the villagers of Hung Lo have passed down techniques and expertise through generations.

Mr. Nguyen Van Ninh, the head of the traditional Banh Chung and Banh Giay craft village of Hung Lo, shared: “In 2017, Xom village was officially recognized as the Banh Chung and Banh Giay craft village of Hung Lo. The village now has over 30 households continuing the tradition of Banh Chung wrapping and Banh Giay pounding. The villagers themselves are unsure of when the craft began, but they know that, alongside rice noodle making, wrapping Banh Chung has been a practice in the village for a very long time.”

The artisans of Hung Lo Banh Chung are deeply committed to preserving and advancing the tradition of their craft. As the fourth generation continuing the family legacy of making Banh Chung in Xom village, Mr. Nguyen Thanh Binh shared: “Since I was young, my siblings and I began with simple tasks like sweeping, washing leaves, measuring rice, and soaking beans... and then staying up late to help our grandmother and parents tie the strings and boil the Banh Chung to ensure they were ready to deliver to customers in the morning. Despite the hardships, my wife and I decided to continue the tradition and pass it on, preserving the family craft of making Banh Chung to offer to the Hung Kings on the anniversary of their death.”

The traditional ingredients—green dong leaves, fragrant sticky rice, and green beans—remain unchanged. When talking about the famous Banh Chung villages of the Land of the Kings, one cannot overlook the Banh Chung from Cat Tru in Hung Viet Commune, Cam Khe District. For nearly 30 years, Nguyen Thi Minh Anh’s family has continued the tradition of Banh Chung making. Her family, now in its third generation of making Banh Chung at the Chinh Anh facility, must rally all family members to wrap the cakes during Tet season. On average, her family wraps 5,000 to 6,000 Banh Chung each day. From the elderly to the young, everyone is busy washing leaves, wiping leaves, rinsing rice, chopping meat, and wrapping the cakes. Once the wrapping is complete, the cakes are placed in large pots, over a wood fire, and boiled throughout the night. The final product—Cat Tru Banh Chung—is perfectly square, with vibrant color, and a delightful aroma. The outer rice layer is soft, sticky, and aromatic, while the filling is rich and flavorful. The cake’s texture is chewy and moist, without being too soggy.

In 2023, the craft of making Banh Chung and Banh Giay from Cam Khe District, Viet Tri City, and Tam Nong District was honored by the Minister of Culture, Sports, and Tourism by being recognized as part of the National Intangible Cultural Heritage List. At the same time, the Banh Chung of the Fatherland from Hung Viet Commune stood out among thousands of exceptional dishes and was proudly included in the TOP 121 representative Vietnamese dishes of 2023, as recognized by the Vietnam Culinary Culture Association.

Ninh Giang